by Darren Oliver
Budapest is a very unusual city, combining a complicated, difficult, and often paradoxical history, wonderful monuments, and beautiful modern developments. It is a place lying very often on the axis of historical conflicts, to which it owes its unique character. The streets of Budapest are magical, morning walks through this city give the feeling that we are in the beating heart of Europe – ubiquitous tourists and friendly locals mingle on the busy streets of the city.
Being in the city, you feel that it was here in the 1920s and 1930s that the café culture flourished and developed. Even at that time, Budapest had almost 500 cafes in constant operation, which were places for poets, artists, and politicians to meet and discuss – and staying in Budapest you can feel this rich past.
As for coffee culture, today, in the 21st century, Budapest is still the site of a clash: this time between traditional coffee culture and the third wave of coffee, introducing new methods, popularizing pour-over coffee and minimalist, aesthetic spaces. When I was first given the opportunity to taste coffee from the pioneers of the Hungarian specialty coffee scene – Casino Mocca – a few years ago, I knew that a visit to Budapest would be an unforgettable experience for me. I was not mistaken. Although I was in Budapest in transit, just one day, I managed to have a taste of what modern Budapest coffee culture is like. Here are the two coffee shops I think every coffee lover must try, when in Budapest.
Kávétársaság – In the Heart of the City
“Kávétársaság was established with the aim of changing or at least positively influencing, the local coffee […]. We have put together our selection with great care and we are sure that coffee lovers can get acquainted with many new flavors, unknown in Hungary” – that’s how the coffee shop describes itself.
I stumbled upon Kávétársaság by complete accident, walking around the tourist-historical part of the city, not far from Budapest’s beautiful basilica. Walking down the street, the café immediately caught my eye – for its signboard featured beautiful, shiny, stainless-steel coffee makers. I knew I had to go inside.
Inside, I was surprised by the sizable space of the place. Without a doubt, it does not give the vibe of a cozy little cafe. There is a showroom in the central part of the Hall, where you can see not only beautiful espresso machines, but also other coffee brewing equipment, a selection of beans, or even… wine (by the way, Hungarian wine is also something you have to try while in Budapest).
The sizable, large brew bar allowed me to closely observe the entire coffee preparation process. The heat tempted me to taste a delicate and subtle ice latte, while as a lover of pour-over coffees, I couldn’t resist ordering a V60 drip brew (although other brewing methods, like the AeroPress, are also available) from one of my favorite roasters, Johan & Nystrom.
The prepared brews were phenomenally delicious – what else would you expect from a specialty coffee shop? The iced latte was the perfect creamy refreshment for a hot July day. The drip coffee (from Sumatra) stood out with a very interesting, classic flavor complemented by fruity notes that were strongly noticeable in the aftertaste. However, the best part was the sheer atmosphere that accompanied the coffee drinking. The definition of slow life. Sitting at tables outside, by the cafe, one can enjoy the beauty of the area, looking at busy people rushing to work, and tourists, fascinated by the city’s history, or the unique architecture. Sitting in Kávétársaság, you can have the feeling that you are sitting in a classic Budapest café from the last century, but in a modern, “third-wave” way. It’s an atmosphere that cannot be described in words, which is why Kávétársaság is a must-visit item if you ever visit Budapest.
Kazinczy – The Smallest Coffee in Budapest
After my visit to Kávétársaság, I found that I wanted to experience Budapest’s coffee culture from a completely different angle. So I decided to explore Erzsébetváros, Budapest’s former Jewish quarter, which today is an eclectic and avant-garde place. Graffiti, street art, and fashion combine there with simple restaurants and stores. There you can find businesses looking for compromise and innovation, but referring to history if only serving traditional Hungarian dishes in modern renditions.
I found the smallest coffee shop in Budapest – Kazinczy – part of the specialty Budapest Coffee Stand chain there. Blended into the local architecture, the small cafes can be found all over Budapest. The spot I came across, however, was special, as it was genuinely the smallest coffee shop I have ever seen in my life. You drink your coffee while standing in front of the cafe. Inside, there is room for exactly one barista and an espresso machine – there are no pour-over coffees to choose from, but I think this adds to the place’s charm.
Again, I opted for the milk-iced coffee, plus an espresso made from Guatemalan beans. Again, both brews were top-notch – the milk coffee was very subtle and refreshing, while the espresso had a pleasant acidity and deep cocoa notes. The best part, however, was definitely the barista, with whom I had the pleasure of a brief chat (I salute you warmly, Simon!).
Coffee Stand Kazinczy showed me a completely different side of Budapest’s coffee culture – vibrant, full of Energy and passion, more social, and “interactive”. Talking to a barista on a crowded street, in an eccentric Budapest neighborhood – this is how I will remember the Hungarian capital.
Experience Budapest Coffee Culture
Although my visit to Budapest was short, it was also definitely successful. I was able to experience two very different Budapest “coffee worlds.” Kazinczy Coffee Stand and Kávétársaság are places that give a complete picture not only of Budapest’s coffee shops but of Budapest as a city as a whole – classy and eclectic, calm and energetic, all at once. If you ever visit Budapest, visit those places (and say hi to Simon from me!).