by Darren Oliver
I walk between the stands in the crowded market hall. From all sides come beautiful and intriguing smells: oriental spices, teas, delicious cheeses and meats… One aroma, however, stands out above the rest. It’s a smell so distinctive that any coffee lover would recognize it awake in the middle of the night. A sign in Polish appears to my eyes: “Coffee stronger than Bruce Lee’s kick.” I’m standing in front of a small stand, on whose counter two golden Aeropresses shimmer. I have reached my destination: I’m at Cafe Targowa.
Magical Realism of Cafe Targowa
Cafe Targowa is an unusual place. It is located in Hala Targowa, a traditional market hall in Wrocław, whose first designs were created in the early 20th century. It’s one of those places where you can get absolutely everything: from fresh fruit, laundry detergent, Greek cheeses, Spanish cured meats to coffee from the world’s champion of its brewing.
It’s one of those places where time has simultaneously stopped and is constantly rushing forward. A place where nostalgia meets progress: next to the stalls that have stood there for decades are cafes where the latest espresso machines, which prices are equivalent to those of used cars, shine. It’s a place filled with a certain magical realism: if Gabriel Garcia Marquez had seen it, he would certainly have described it in one of his books. It was this place that, in my opinion, gave birth to the absolute best Aeropress coffee recipe ever.
The creator of the cafe is Filip Kucharczyk, an experienced barista and roaster who has been involved in the Wrocław coffee scene for years. His biggest (so far) contribution to the world of coffee was in 2016 – for it was then that he created the recipe with which he won first the Polish Aeropress Championship and then the World Aeropress Championship.
What’s more, almost identical recipes (with minor changes) won the World Aeropress Championship until 2021! Why didn’t this recipe win in 2021? The popularity of the method popularized by Filip Kucharczyk caused the rules to be changed in 2021, including allowing a maximum of 18 grams of coffee and a minimum of 150 grams of coffee obtained. His method was just too overpowered!
The Legendary Recipe
Before we get to describing the experience of visiting Cafe Targowa itself, I’d also like to cite this legendary recipe so you can try brewing it yourself. Although the recipe uses an exceptionally large amount of coffee, I guarantee that the final result is worth it.
We start the whole thing by coarsely grinding 35 grams of coffee, which we pour into an inverted Aeropress. We pour the whole thing over 150 grams of water at 183 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 seconds. Stir for another 20 seconds, apply the lid, and wait until the whole minute passes – turn the Aeropress over, swirl it gently, plunge slowly, then add about 120 grams of water, done!
I must admit that this is my favorite method for brewing coffee in the Aeropress – it works with any beans and is simply irreplaceable. I am convinced that it is also the best brewing method in existence. So I was looking forward to drinking it in the cafe of the Champion himself.
A Visit to the Café
At the café, I was greeted by a friendly barista. One glance at the menu and I already knew I had to try an Aeropress coffee brewed with the legendary recipe – the barista offered me a crisp and fruity coffee from Kenya – as she said, the recipe used perfectly highlights the pleasant acidity in it. The hot day was also a great reason for getting iced coffee – I couldn’t resist an iced latte to see if espresso coffees are as good as pour-over ones.
As I sat at the counter, a few more people visited the café, mainly to purchase beans from Figa Coffee, a roastery also created by FIlip Kucharczyk. Because of the small space and open nature, it doesn’t feel like you’re in a coffee shop, but more like you’re having coffee with friends. The barista chatted and joked with guests, commenting on the results of a famous Polish tennis player, Iga Świątek, while brewing my Aeropress. Feeling this amazing, friendly atmosphere, it’s no wonder that Cafe Targowa has a cult status among local coffee lovers.
As for the taste – I expected masterful perfection and received exactly what I hoped for. Served in a beautiful ceramic server with eye-catching glass, the coffee was simply superb. The light, crisp acidity evoked rhubarb and gooseberries, it wasn’t heavy, tasting more like a compote – perfect for the summer heat. It didn’t taste like ordinary Aeropress coffee – it was a level above, but what else to expect from a championship-winning recipe?
I also couldn’t deny myself my guilty pleasure, which is the iced latte. The sweetness, chocolate and nutty notes of the perfectly prepared espresso blended perfectly with the cold milk, providing a wonderful reprieve in the heat of the bustling market hall building. It also confirmed that FIlip Kucharczyk’s cafe manages to achieve perfection in every aspect – the coffee from the machine was as perfect as the pour-over.
A Visit Like No Other
If you ever happen to visit picturesque Wroclaw in southern Poland, take a look at Cafe Targowa. You might be able to taste an Aeropress coffee from the hand of the master himself (because he too sometimes greets his guests from behind the bar). However, Cafe Targowa is not just a curiosity, it is the heart of a place where time has simultaneously stopped and is still rushing forward.
It’s an amazing, cozy place that combines everything that’s best about specialty coffee – great coffee, friendly service, and an unforgettable atmosphere. It’s a place that stands out as a coffee shop not only in the city and the country but perhaps even in the world. After all, sitting at the bar, one has the impression that nothing matters except the moment, accompanied by the best coffee in the world. This is what a visit to Cafe Targowa is like.